Wednesday , December 1 2021

No turkey? Order a preassembled turducken and thank me later

I recently cooked the amazing turkey stuffed with a chicken stuffed with a duck. Thanksgiving will never be the same.

There’s still time to order a preassembled turducken for Thanksgiving with free delivery by Wednesday.

There are a lot of turkey hot takes this time of year. One of the most widespread is that they’re just not very good or too difficult to get right, but we all give it a go anyway because, you know, tradition. 

It’s true that getting those massive birds to cook evenly and not dry out over the course of several hours in the oven ain’t easy. You can brine and baste until you’re blue in the face, but roasting a 12-pound-plus turkey is still a tough task, even for an experienced home cook. I decided to try something new this year when I spotted authentic Louisiana turduckens for sale online (That’s a turkey stuffed with a chicken that’s stuffed with a duck, for the uninitiated.) 

The turduckens I found on Goldbelly were all preassembled (with a layer of cornbread stuffing to boot), seasoned and ready to be cooked. They looked fabulous in their internet glam shots and had good reviews on Goldbelly. Pound-for-pound they weren’t terribly expensive either, especially when you consider that even the “small” $129 turducken feeds up to 15 people. That was enough for me to take a swing at the turducken, and the next thing I knew, a massive hunk of shrink-wrapped, frozen meat was sitting on my doorstep. 

I cooked my very first turducken for a Friendsgiving fete this past weekend. It turned out so tasty that it’s difficult to imagine going back to plain old and (sorry) often boring turkey. 

Note: Order Herbert’s stuffed turducken by Wednesday, Nov. 17, and Goldbelly will still ship it before Thanksgiving for free.

My ($129) turducken showed up neatly packaged and completely frozen.

Turduckens are whole turkeys that have been deboned and stuffed with a whole chicken that has itself been stuffed with a deboned duck. The massive meat roll is roasted as one would a normal turkey, then sliced and served. One of the ideas is that the famously fat-rich duck helps keep the famously lean turkey from drying out.

Turduckens landed in our lives mostly thanks to ex-NFL-coach-turned-announcer John Madden who would bust one out on live TV in his many Thanksgiving appearances. As the origin story goes, a turducken was sent up to Madden in the press box by a local New Orleans meat shop called Gourmet Butcher Block during a New Orleans Saints broadcast. Madden tried it, loved it and so incorporated it into his on-air turkey day tradition from then on. 

I remember seeing these trios of poultry stuffed inside one another like Russian nesting dolls on TV but always assumed the turducken was more of a stunt; a bit like a food meme before we even knew what memes were. I further assumed that, even if turduckens were any good, they were probably more trouble than they were worth to make, what with all the deboning, flattening, stuffing and seasoning. 

Not so with these ready-to-roast versions.

The 12-pound turducken takes about 12 hours to defrost on the counter, and longer if you’re planning to do it in the fridge. 

First, you’ll need to defrost the bird(s), which can take as much as three days in the fridge and more like six hours in a sink or bath of cold water. 

Cooking a turducken is rather simple but it does take time. The instructions directed me to cook the turducken at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for 4 hours covered and another hour uncovered to crisp the skin. I used a roasting rack with a pan underneath to catch drippings. I also used my Meater thermometer to track the internal temp, which must get to 165 degrees for poultry to be safely eaten. 

My turducken wasn’t anywhere near 165 degrees after the prescribed five hours. In fact, it didn’t hit that internal temp for another 90 minutes. Luckily, we had plenty of wine and appetizers to hold us over, but it’s something to keep in mind if your turkey day runs on a tight schedule. 

If you order one, I would definitely weigh your bird (mine was a full pound heavier than it was advertised to be) and throw it in an hour or so earlier than you would normally, keeping a close eye on the temp. As a happy accident, the extra time in the oven helped get the skin to a perfect crispy brown, and there were lots of drippings in the pan for making gravy. I cheated a little and drizzled some melted butter over the skin about an hour before it came out of the oven, but I suspect it would have been plenty crispy on its own.

I cheated and drizzled some melted butter over the skin about an hour before it came out of the oven. 

Pretty much everyone agreed it was about the tastiest Thanksgiving turkey experience we’d ever had. The fat from the duck permeated the entire roast, and all three meats were incredibly moist, tender and pumping with flavor. It was akin to eating pernil (roasted pork shoulder) or some other slow-cooked barbecue in the way everything sort of shredded and fell apart. When I sliced it, all three types of meat melted off the side and piled together with the duck fat, stuffing and seasoning blending to create a sauce.

The turducken was more like eating pulled pork than a traditional roast turkey. 

The particular turducken I ordered had a layer of Cajun cornbread stuffing and a bit of Cajun spice on the skin, too, so it had some kick; enough to notice but not overpowering. And nothing a bite of creamy mashed potatoes or sweet cranberry sauce couldn’t neutralize.

You could certainly make a turducken from scratch but deboning an entire whole turkey, a chicken and a duck will take a good while and you’ve got to nail the sizes to ensure they’ll all fit snugly inside each other. My recommendation is to snag one from Goldbelly that’s preassembled but not yet cooked. 

I opted for the Hebert’s 10-pound turducken with cajun cornbread stuffing for $129. There are other options on Goldbelly, too, including a 17-pounder from Gourmet Butcher Block ($149). Turduckens are mostly still in stock and can be shipped to arrive before Thanksgiving (for free if you order soon). Just make sure you allow six or seven hours for the turducken to defrost in a sink of cold water or a few days to defrost in the fridge. 

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